Destination guide
First Contact with Peru
Andean altitude, jungle rivers, and a food revolution
Peru is three countries stacked vertically. The coast, dry and Pacific-facing, home to Lima. The sierra, high and Andean, home to Cusco and Arequipa. And the selva, the Amazon basin covering more than half the country. The food scene of the last twenty years has made Lima one of the world's great eating cities, and the interior is where the older Peru still lives.
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First Impression
First contact with Peru usually starts in Lima or arrives directly at Cusco. Cusco at 3,400 meters is a real altitude challenge, and travelers who fly straight in from sea level almost always regret not adding a day of rest in the Sacred Valley (which is lower) before pushing higher.
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Local Etiquette
- Greet with a small nod or a light handshake. In smaller towns, buenos dias to strangers on the street.
- Ask before photographing anyone in traditional dress. Small tips are expected.
- In the Andes, respect the pace of coca leaves and the local rhythm of altitude.
- Do not walk on ruins or touch archaeological stone.
- Cash matters outside big cities. Carry small soles bills.
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Getting Around
Domestic flights on Latam and Sky handle the long distances between coast, sierra, and jungle. Long-distance buses (Cruz del Sur is the safe choice) cover the coast well. In the Sacred Valley, colectivos (shared vans) are cheap and efficient. Trains to Machu Picchu run only from Ollantaytambo and Poroy and must be booked in advance.
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What Everyone Should Try
- A ceviche lunch in Lima's Barranco neighborhood at a small cevicheria the taxi driver recommends
- A day at Pisac market in the Sacred Valley on Sunday
- A slow acclimatization walk through Ollantaytambo before Machu Picchu
- An early morning at Machu Picchu on the first bus up
- A hike into the Colca Canyon from Cabanaconde, one of the deepest canyons on earth
Budget snapshot
What things actually cost
Hidden gems
Places most guides skip
Choquequirao
A sister ruin to Machu Picchu, reached only by a two-day hike, still with almost no tourists.
Huacachina
A small oasis in the desert south of Ica, with sandboarding on massive dunes at sunset.
Kuelap
A pre-Inca cloud-forest fortress in the northern Amazonas region, older and more remote than Machu Picchu.
Barranco
Lima's small bohemian neighborhood, best for evening walks and small design shops.
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Common Tourist Mistakes
- Flying straight into Cusco from sea level without acclimatization.
- Trying to do Machu Picchu as a day trip from Cusco. Overnight in Aguas Calientes and go up on the first bus.
- Booking only Cusco and Machu Picchu. Arequipa and the Colca Canyon are worth four days.
- Ignoring Lima. Two full days at minimum. The food alone is worth the trip.
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Best Time to Visit
May through September is the dry season in the Andes, with cold nights and clear days. Lima is grey and cool most of the year, sunniest January to March. The Amazon is wet always, drier May to October.
Gallery
Peru in three frames
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You've made first contact. Now start planning the trip.
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