Vietnam

Destination guide

First Contact with Vietnam

Motorbike streets, rice terraces, and the best noodles on earth

Vietnam runs on scooters, coffee, and a food culture that has no equivalent anywhere. A country 1,650 kilometers long from Sapa to the Mekong delta, with three quite different regions, thousands of kilometers of coast, and a rhythm that rewards travelers who slow down.

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First Impression

What surprises many first-time visitors is the tempo. Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City are loud and constant, and just outside them the country slows down within an hour. The other surprise is the food. Even the average bowl of pho at a curb in Hue is better than 90 percent of the Vietnamese food available anywhere else in the world.

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Local Etiquette

  • Take shoes off entering a home or many small guesthouses.
  • Hand items with two hands, especially to older people.
  • Do not touch anyone's head, especially a child's.
  • Bargaining in markets is expected. In restaurants and shops with marked prices, it is not.
  • Dress modestly at temples and pagodas, shoulders and knees covered.

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Getting Around

Domestic flights are cheap and cover the long north-south distances quickly. The Reunification Express train runs the length of the country and is a slow but beautiful way to see it. In cities, Grab covers cars and motorbikes at fair prices. In small towns, a rented bicycle or scooter opens the countryside. Do not rent a scooter unless you can genuinely ride one.

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What Everyone Should Try

  • A 6am bowl of pho at a curb stand in Hanoi's old quarter
  • Egg coffee at Giang Cafe or a similar Hanoi original
  • A slow boat ride through the Mekong delta from Can Tho
  • A day of hiking around Sapa's rice terraces with a Hmong guide
  • Bahn xeo and grilled fish at a beach shack in central Vietnam

Budget snapshot

What things actually cost

Mid-range hotel
$25 to $65 per night
Pho or bahn mi
$1.50 to $3
Vietnamese coffee
$1 to $2
Domestic flight
$35 to $80
Museum entry
$2 to $5

Hidden gems

Places most guides skip

Ha Giang loop

A three-day motorbike loop through the far northern mountains, one of the most beautiful drives in Asia if you can ride safely.

Con Dao islands

A quiet archipelago off the south coast with beaches, empty roads, and a heavy history from the war years.

Phong Nha

Central Vietnam's cave country, including Son Doong, the largest cave chamber in the world.

Mai Chau

A green valley three hours from Hanoi, quieter and cheaper than Sapa.

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Common Tourist Mistakes

  • Trying to see north and south in a week. Ten days is a minimum for even the highlights.
  • Renting a motorbike in Hoi An or Sapa without prior riding experience.
  • Booking only Ha Long Bay day trips. An overnight is much better, and Lan Ha Bay is calmer than the main bay.
  • Skipping central Vietnam. Hue and Hoi An together are worth four days.

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Best Time to Visit

February through April in the south and center, October and November in the north. July and August in the north are hot and rainy but beautiful in the mountains. Central Vietnam has a typhoon season in October and November, worth checking before booking coastal time.

Gallery

Vietnam in three frames

Vietnam scene
Vietnam scene
Vietnam scene

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